Sunday, July 6, 2008

Sea Islands Getaway

A few weeks back, my wife and I took the opportunity to get away for a few days and headed for the southern coast of South Carolina. We went back to Fripp Island, just north of Hilton Head, for a few days of beach, relaxation, and of course eating!

Here are my tips / observations / options on the places we visited.

Gullah Grub on Sea Island Highway, St. Helena Island.
This place is small, looks like it’s been there for awhile, casual, cash only, limited menu, my kind of place. I went in on the way back to the condo for some food to go. The friendly lady greeted me, told me about their specials (BBQ goat!), and took my order, then we chatted a little while the one cook got our food ready. We had the She Crab Soup, which was creamy and rich, loaded with what looked like hand picked crab meat. The Gumbo was full of shrimp and crab, thickened with a dark roux and served with red rice. Lima beans were buttery and salted with pork, and the cornbread was fresh and delicious. Total tab was about $21. Needless to say, I highly recommend and will stop back next time we are in the area.


Fuji Sushi on Sea Island Highway.
We had a very good meal here last time we were in the area, so we stopped in to get some food one of the days. It was just 2:00 pm (their afternoon closing time – we did not know this ahead of time), and the surly sushi chef refused to even allow us a few things to go. We won’t be back there; no food is good enough to put up with bad customer service.

Bateaux, Port Royal
I wanted to go hear last time we were in the area, but they were not open yet. A chef friend of mine was partner, but he is not involved anymore. We were there early, 6:00 pm, and enjoyed a lovely meal of small plates.
We started out with Fried Avocado with Housemade Chorizo, a nicely composed, if a little bland, three bite taste.
The Kobe Slider with fried shitake mushrooms and cocktail sauce was good but not great. The mushrooms were my favorite part, with the cocktail sauce being an unlikely and interesting accompaniment.
The Chicken Livers with caramelized onions in a rum sauce were delicious, nicely crusted and accompanied by a rich sauce. The cornbread accompaniment was stale though.
Shrimp ceviche potato tulle, yuck. The shrimp were mushy and tasted like they were on the way out. The only thing I didn’t like.
Smoked fried chicken orzo mac, ham, salty but good. Imagine fried chicken that taste like bacon.
Corn chowder with stone crab, nice thought but bland. Generous portion though.
The Cheese plate was goat cheese with olives, Bleu cheese with honey, and camembert with marinated apricots. Very nice cheeses and accompaniments
White chocolate cheesecake tart was a little sloppy but delicious. Service was friendly, and a warm greeting from the general manager was nice. The dinner for two set us back $86 before tip.


Saltus River Grill, Beaufort
The wife and I ate outside on a balmy evening. Another very good dinner.
Blue Crab Cocktail, sticky rice, fresh avocado, wasabi aioli was good, the rice would have been better warmed, the wasabi aioli delicious.
Bibb Lettuce, goat cheese crouton, spiced pecans, red onion, julienne tomato, and balsamic dressing, very nice salad, good balance and sweetness for the wife.
Local Shrimp Sautéed with Country Ham, scallions, shiitakes and garlic
on creamy stone ground grits, I was so looking forward to this but, alas, it was bland. Would have been great with a little salt and pepper
“Blackened” Dorado, ragout of fennel and leeks, sauce beurre blanc,
smashed fingerling potato and crab gratin was very good, our favorite thing of the evening.
All together the tab was $96 before tip. My wife had a glass of wine as well. Service was attentive if a little stiff. Be careful, the palmetto bugs come out after dark!


Magnolia Bakery, Beaufort
Counter service was very slow but the cakes were good. We took some to go.

The Chocolate tree, Beaufort
Very good handmade chocolates, chocolate dipped ginger, bark, nice stuff, well worth a drop it!

Driftwood Farms, Sea Island Highway near Gullah Grub
Pick your own tomatoes, fun and cheap!

Gay Shrimp Dock, Sea Island Highway, near Fripp
Great local shrimp in season, a truly local place. Across the street is The Shrimp Shack, I will stop next time!

White shrimp company, Sea Island Highway
Also a local shrimp counter, very clean, sells their signature shrimp pie.
Dobson shrimp dock

We stopped in a little bagel place in Beaufort for a snack, had a great bagel sandwich named after the writer pat Conroy, very tasty!

Nippy’s is a little fish shack and taco stand in Beaufort owned by the same people as Saltus River Grill and a more casual place called Plums. It is very cool, tasty, and cheap. Fried shrimp tacos, fried fish, slaw, eat outside on wooden tables, just a great quick meal.

Georgia Pig BBQ, Exit 29 off of I95 in Georgia
We stumbled upon this place and I will definitely be back. Little A-frame by the side of the road, the pit is inside so it permanently smells of hardwood smoke. The pork is chopped to order, two plates with slaw, mac and cheese, beans, and Brunswick stew set us back less than $15. Plus I am still trying to replicate their jalapeño relish.

Overall, a great place to visit and explore. I love finding new restaurants and food place, meeting the people who make them run, and enjoying the fruits of their labor. Get out there, explore, enjoy, eat local, and have fun!

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Eat Carolina Food Challenge

I was excited when I heard about CFSA’s Eat Carolina Challenge. Basically, the challenge is to eat only food that is grown or produced in North or South Carolina for one week. I have read about similar quests, sometimes for much longer time periods and closer to home (within 100 miles). I appreciate the exploration of these resources for several reasons; reduction of gas use obviously, supporting our local growers, food artisans, and fishermen, potential for fresher, healthier, and better tasting food, and especially the thrill of discovering a new country ham, farmer, or fish monger that I didn’t know about.

In that vein, I have put together a list of Carolina sources that I know about for everything from produce to grass fed beef. If you know of someone else, please let me know.

Oaklyn Plantation http://www.freerangechicken.com/
Free range chicken, beef, and some pet food products as well

Caw Caw Creek http://cawcawcreek.com/
Wonderful pork products from Emile, a talented and passionate producer

Local Harvest http://www.localharvest.org/
Searchable data base of growers, producers, artisans, and restaurants

Myrtle Beach Restaurant News http://myrtlebeachrestaurantnews.com/
Has a page with local farmer’s phone numbers and addresses

Carolina Plantation Rice http://www.carolinaplantationrice.com/
Wonderful rice!

Adluh Flour http://www.adluh.com/index.php
Stone ground grits, flours, and other local products

Indigo Farms http://www.ncagr.com/NCproducts/ShowSite.asp?ID=1909
Great local farm stand direct marketer, just over the border in NC

Carolina Seafood Shops http://agriculture.sc.gov/content.aspx?ContentID=734

Myrtle Market http://www.cityofmyrtlebeach.com/market.html
Every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday here in Myrtle Beach, SC.

Carolina Harvest http://www.carolinaharvest.com/carolinaharvest/ch_products.cfm
Just found this one, sells my favorite country ham from Foothills Country Ham and Fresh Meats.

Lots of farm stands too. Just a tip, though, I always ask if the product was Carolina grown before buying.
Take care, stay cool, and Eat Carolina!

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

getting the goods

What a great day!

I spent the day with Peter Sinish of Flavors Catering driving around to local farms looking to make some contacts. A little background might be in order;

When I moved here almost five years ago from Atlanta, I immediately started looking around for the local farmers, fishermen, producers, etcetera to buy from for the restaurants. It was very difficult, surprisingly difficult, to get local stuff in the doors of my restaurants. Looking back, I think that Myrtle Beach doesn’t have a long history of supporting those relationships, so the processes were not in place. Basically, no demand, no supply.

My chefs and I have worked hard to move towards buying from the Carolinas and locally whenever possible, basically whenever there are products available to us. We have fostered relationships with seafood wholesalers that buy from local boats, Carolina shrimpers, soft shell crab producers, Carolina Plantation rice, Caw Caw Creek pork, and other Carolina producers. It is really a reversal of years of purchasing trends.

I started going to the farmers market last year, and met some good folks there. Sam and Sarah from Indigo farms are growing more organic produce; Howard and Anita from Black Creek Farm produce wonderful goat cheese. I still couldn’t get anyone to come to the restaurants, though.

A month or so ago, Peter emailed the Chef’s Collaborative, which I am active with, and they gave him my name. Well, I have known Peter for some time, he is very active locally and an all around great guy. So, we decided to hit the road today and try and make some contacts.

Our first stop was Indigo farms. They are interested but short on time. Sarah was harvesting honey today, which will show up at the farmers market this week! They also have some new goats and will be getting milk next year, can’t wait. Then we went to Tyler Farms on 378. J.D. Tyler spoke to us for about an hour, we shared some fried chicken, and talked bout all of the wonderful produce he grows right there on his farm. He said he could get a truck to us once or twice a week and has produce almost year round. We are in business!

So, a long process, but a very fruitful day and I am excited about the possibilities. Fresh produce tastes better, is higher quality, and has less of an environmental impact when it is grown closer to home. It is, I believe, simply the right thing to do.

Now to talk to some other chefs and get the ball rolling. Buy local, cook with passion, and enjoy all that we have been blessed with.

Ciao,

Monday, May 5, 2008

Carolina Coastal food continued

A few things from my trip to the Myrtle beach Farmer’s market on Saturday;

Green peanuts; they are great simmered for sixty to ninety minutes in salted water. I took some out of the shell and added to a sautéed shrimp dish for an earthy salty flavor.

The dish was Sautéed shrimp with green peanuts, ginger, brown butter, and rainbow Swiss chard, served with steamed rice and a lemon wedge, it was delicious!

Tiny, tiny asparagus from Indigo Run Farms just over the border in North Carolina; Steam in a pan with salted water, as soon as water comes to a boil remove from heat, top with butter.

Fresh greens; hearty and delicate at the same time, obviously not big farm grown.

Strawberries; eat them just as is, pistachio shortcake recipe is under the recipe tab, drizzle with balsamic and fresh black pepper, toss in a spinach salad, make some jam, freeze some for later!

Sugar snap peas; steam, salt and butter, or julienne and quickly sauté with shallots and thyme and serve under a piece of fresh fish. Steam, puree, run through a food mill, and then whisk in butter for a silky accompaniment to roast chicken or fish.

Sweet potatoes; add 50 next time you make mashed potatoes for a different and flavorful potato puree. Dice and sauté with thyme and country ham for a delicious hash. Slice and layer with cream, butter, and cheese for a silky gratin. Prick with a fork and roast whole, then they can be peeled and eaten or the soft flesh can be used for a bunch of different things.

Baby onions; Slice and add to sautéed vegetables. Grill with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Roast in foil with poultry or pork.

I consider myself blessed to live somewhere that has such an abundance of great ingredients to cook and eat. I am also proud of the emerging food culture of the Carolina Coastal region and will continue to cook it, think about it, blog it, and promote it. Maybe a Carolina Coastal cookbook soon? Watch for it!

Ciao!

Sunday, April 27, 2008

What makes Myrtle Beach special?

What makes Myrtle Beach special?

Culinarily, the great seafood. Go to C&C Seafood in Murrells Inlet and try a whole fish or soft-shell crabs. They come from the boats behind Divine Fish House, the crabs from a guy in McClellanville who hand picks them out of a holding talk as soon as they molt. Fresh shrimp, oysters, how could you beat that?

The fresh produce, honey, and other cool stuff at the farmers market every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. The goat cheese from Black Creek Farm. The farmers market on 10th and Oak is every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm.

Country ham from Lee’s Produce in Murrells Inlet. I bought a slab of side meat that was amazing, used it for cooking demos in NYC and Atlanta.

Shrimp season is May through the end of the year, almost all year round! White roes shrimp in the spring, browns in the summer, then whites in the fall, getting bigger as the end of the year approaches. There are numerous shrimp hawkers, just look closely and make sure they look and smell fresh.

All of the great restaurants and chefs. We have world class dining and people who believe in this area passionately. Watch for a cookbook from the Myrtle Beach ACF soon!

The beach, 60 miles of beautiful beach, much of it uncrowded even in the height of summer season. I just bought a beach Hobie, can’t wait for this summer!

A short list, of course we have world class golf, shopping, amusements parks, and lots of other great stuff. I am glad to live here if you have never been, come see what we have to offer.

Ciao!

Friday, April 11, 2008

New places, new faces

We welcome Chef Bryan Bodle to Divine Dining Group as the Executive Chef at City Bar. Bryan was Executive Chef of Seablue in North Myrtle Beach for four years before joining us. We are very proud to have him as a member of our team.

I stopped by Habibi's Lebanese Market today, which just opened near Ron Jon's Beer and Burgers just over the bridge off 501. I bought some Halvah, olives, curd cheese, sea salt (I lost my usual one on my trip to NYC and needed to replace), and a meat that looked a lot like tasso ham called Basturma. It is covered with spices and the store owner said to slice thin and enjoy like prosciutto. I will let you know how it is.

Ben Tench is our new Executive Chef of Roy and Sid's and Divine Prime. He is most recently from a restaurant that he owned and successfully ran for ten years, called Tango Seafood and Steakhouse in Vero Beach, FL. He is a talented and visionary chef and I look forward to opening these restaurants with him.

More to come on our other chefs. Ciao,
Chef Kurt

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Carolina Coastal food

What is Carolina Coastal Cuisine?

I am traveling to NYC next week to culinarily represent the Grand Strand in a brief promotional tour of sorts. To prepare for this, I have had to think about and define what I am already doing, cooking a style of cuisine that in born of the coast and the Carolinas. It is a great thing; it has brought clarity and vision in my mind to a style of cuisine that has not been clearly defined. I recently talked to Becky Billingsley of http://www.myrtlebeachrestraurantnews.com/ and she is going through the same process, together I think we got further than either of us was separately.

What is Carolina Coastal food? Well, first of all, like all great regional cuisines, it is ingredient driven. We enjoy a wide array of locally and regionally fished, grown, and produced foods.

Seafood if paramount, of course. Arguabley shrimp would be king, the local shrimp are amazingly firm and briny when freshly harvested, and are superior to imported frozen in my opinion. Oysters and blue crab, especially soft shell blues, are predominant and wonderful. We also buy fresh gag and scamp grouper, vermillion snapper (or B liners as they are called around here), dolphin or mahi mahi, ahi tuna, flounder, and wahoo from local fishermen.

Pork is big in the Carolinas, and is used generously in our cooking. Bacon, fatback, country ham, and locally cured cuts are favorite ingredients. Chops are seen on many menus, and of course barbeque is a pillar of our culinary heritage.

We also enjoy many locally and regionally grown and produced fruits, vegetables, and grains, including sweet potatoes, mustard, turnip, and collard greens, peanuts, pecans, peaches, tomatoes, berries, melons, onions, field peas, and fresh corn. Rice is seeing a comeback, with locally grown varieties that made the Carolinas a wealthy place 150 years ago. Stone ground grits are a backbone of the area and cuisine, lending a versatile and flavorful component to many dishes.

In addition to our bountiful ingredients, I think that Carolina Coastal cuisine is rooted in our rich culinary history. Methods and traditions, such as smoking meats, cooking greens, mustard, vinegar, and tomato sauces, oyster roasts, chicken bog, and other traditions influence what and how we cook. The last component to Carolina Coastal food is a sense of recreation, fun, enjoyment, and leisure. I think all great food is meant to be enjoyable, of course, but we live in an area that is built around vacations and I think that comes through in our food.

Here are a few dishes that I think best represent Carolina Coastal cooking from my repertoire.

Cracker Crusted Scamp Grouper, Carolina Gold risotto timbale, fresh oyster stew, butter poached onions and leeks and parsley froth

Caw caw Creek pastured pork chop, stone ground grit soufflé, field asparagus, brandy demiglace

Carolina Shrimp with Country Ham and Sweet Potato Hash and
Mustard Verjus Sauce
Dredged in stone ground grits batter and pan fried

Shrimp and Grits
Carolina Shrimp with tasso ham, tomato, scallion, and bourbon cream over stone ground Adluh mills parmesan thyme grits
(On the menu at our newest restaurant called Roy and Sid’s American kitchen – in the market Common development)

Carolina Steamed Bun
Pulled pork and baby mustard greens, seasoned and wrapped in sweet dough, steamed, and served with two barbeque sauces

Cornmeal fried Carolina oysters with Piccalilli relish
(Very quick app, on the menu at Roy and Sid’s)

Carolina Coastal food is reflected in all of my restaurants, not intentionally but it is a natural way for me to cook. I think that, as this concept and understanding develops, we will see a greater definition, statement, vision, and promotion of Carolina Coastal cuisine, and I think that that is a great thing. Ciao!